Highlights

The solitary little building across from Minton's on South De Anza Boulevard in San Jose has housed many restaurants over the years. It was once a Mexican place. More recently it was a kebab restaurant. For almost a year now, it's been home to Layang Layang, a Malaysian restaurant. Judging by the food and the crowds, the place has really found its groove.

Silicon Valley reaps many benefits from its ethnic diversity. Chief in my mind is the variety of restaurants. I think the increasing number of Malaysian restaurants shows that this is one the most exciting cuisines to hit our fair valley in a long time. Malaysian food has the bright, exotic flavors of Thai and Vietnamese food but takes on elements of other cuisines as well.

Malaysia, a nation that borders Indonesia and Thailand (tsunami deaths there were markedly lower than its neighbors'), is a true melting pot that reflects its place on South China Sea trade routes. The cuisine blends food from the native Malay as well as Chinese, Indian, Indonesian and Portuguese influences. Coconut milk, galangal root, shrimp paste, salted fish, chiles and dry spice-based curries are some of the hallmarks of this colorful and complex cuisine.

Layang Layang's clean, fresh flavors and ingredients make it a great entry into Malaysian food. A layang is a traditional Malay kite. A few hang on the brightly colored walls. One wall is festooned with bamboo and palm, giving the dining room a festive, tropical feel.

The huge menu offers well over 100 items, which can make ordering overwhelming. But it's well-designed, and includes a brief primer on Malaysian food and photos of various dishes-a great help to newcomers. Service is fast and friendly, a feat, given how harried the waitstaff can be.

Your first stop on the menu should be an order of roti canai ($2.95), a classic Malaysian snack that resembles Indian naan.